Monday, October 1, 2012

Right then... (News & K-pop)

It's been more than a month since I last wrote anything on here, which means that I'm a) feeling a bit guilty and b) under threat of uppity emails, so here is a post, of sorts. Trouble is, I don't have that much that I want to write about right now Still, I will do my best to fashion something vaguely of interest.

It's not really going to come from my life though - I've been back just over a month now, and settled back in very quickly. This semester is actually going really well - I have managed to score some smaller classes this semester, and at a higher level too which makes life a bit more interesting, though it's so long since I taught anything higher than pre-intermediate that it's been a bit of a challenge adapting. Still, I'm developing a nice little classroom culture, have some friendly students and a much nicer room to teach in, so all good really. If you're interested in that kind of thing, I do update my other blog much more regularly, though life news is rather scant over there.

I've more or less decided to stay where I am for next year, provided they will have me back. Given that I just got asked to interview English scholarship students for next year, I think I will survive this year's cull (this is a joke by the way). If nothing else, I saved one of the university administrators from the clutches of an email phishing scam, though I think this went unheralded save for the gift of a fancy nail clipping/torture set.


I thought I might deserve a bit more for saving the university a five figure sum (in dollars, not won, too). 

Anyway, if I stay I'm rather thinking that I might move out of the dormitory. Whilst everything being free is extremely nice, I feel like a bit more space would do me good, and not having to share a lift/elevator with a giggling student too many more times will make me just a little bit saner. Also, the city just up the road, Ansan, seems a nice place to live, while remaining only a 10 minute subway ride away. Given that since moving here I've spent about a billion hours (conservatively) on the subway already, this won't be too much of a bind.

In other slightly interesting news, I'm presenting at the KOTESOL International Conference this month, as part of the #KELTChat team. We have a nerdy little Twitter network/chat that we're trying to attract people to, so a team of us are telling people all about it there.

If my calculations are right, Psy's Gangnam Style should be number 1 in the UK right now, as it seems to be more or less all over the world. I must say this strikes me as more than a bit odd, I think there are better examples of K-Pop out there, but at least it doesn't come across as completely studied, and is pretty authentically Korean (a lot of K-pop just imitates western stuff I think). Anyway, someone asked me on Facebook if it was typical K-pop - this was what I came up with in response:

But as to whether it reflects K-pop as a whole, the answer is "kind of". Musically it's pretty standard - mix of Korean lyrics and English catchphrases, dodgy rapping, annoying synth hook, pounding 4-4 beat. All of these are popular over here. Actually, compared to a lot of pop over here it's on the unimaginative side musically. Lyrically though it's (supposedly, I haven't actually bothered to look) more subversive, and poking fun at the materialistic culture of Gangnam, which is one of the areas in Seoul that's full of posh ****s with lots of money (imagine Chelsea minus the football hooligans but with a lot more plastic surgery). Debate is raging as to whether Koreans actually get it or not - my view is they probably do, but are more concerned with copying the dance.

I've done a little bit more research during my 1 on 1 conversation slots with students, and have found that for this demographic at least, they don't really get the lyrics, nor do they particularly care about them. The important thing seems to be the fact that it's catchy and has a good dance routine. In fact, a pretty standard qualification for K-pop success appears to be for middle-schoolers to be able to shuffle uncertainly through your dance routine during interminable school festivals. One girl, who is actually from Gangnam (but seems normal enough), was just grateful that it put Gangnam on the map.

Anyway, now everyone's into K-pop I guess. If you didn't see it, The Guardian prepared this handy guide for you. I'm not totally sure about the quality of the research, a lot seems to be taken from fansites, and K-pop fans are mental, like Beatlemania mental, and are generally not to be trusted for balanced opinions about their idols. What interested me was the fact that almost every girl band is heralded for displaying their sexuality. Actually, this is one complaint that I've gone over with a lot of different people - K-pop simply isn't, by Western standards at least, sexy. The acid test, I think, is to play any video next to "I'm a Slave 4 U" by (pre-mental) Britney Spears. If it's anywhere near comparable to that, call it sexy, for me K-pop still has a long way to go.

Anyway, if you're getting your cappucino in a froth over K-pop, good luck to you. I think there's plenty of better Western pop out there, and if you dislike inauthenticity then K-pop is certainly not the way to go. The marketing and manufacturing of bands here makes Simon Cowell look like Tony Wilson. But it is fun, and shiny, and the performers are uniformly pretty, and it's foreign which always adds an air of cool. Anyway, here's a couple more songs that I have sort of liked (one boys, one girls for fairness), and then one I do like, and the only song I can sing in Korean.


Miss A - Goodbye Baby



M-Blaq - 전쟁이야 (Jeonjaeng-i-ya - This is war)



현빈 (Hyeon-bin) - 그 남자 (That Man).

That ought to do it then. Me and K-pop in a few hundred words. I'll be back again in a month or so. Until then...

Your man, on the ground in Korea, doing an invisible horse dance.

Grev

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Live: Typhoon Bolaven

Hi all,

Preamble: I know I haven't been around for ages, and I'll explain why in another post. I'm not going to waste time on this one though, as I've decided to do something way more exciting. Namely, live-blogging a typhoon. Pretty sure someone has done this before (The Guardian), but it might be interesting nonetheless.

I'm sitting here as the edge of typhoon Bolaven hits me in Siheung City, South Korea (map). I'll try to keep this updated throughout the day with what's happening. Not sure what form the updates will take just yet, but it should be interesting. Anyway, you can read a little more about it here.

6:24am: Awoken at 6.12am by repeated tapping noise. Turns out to be the wind coming through the air conditioning and rattling my bathroom door. The noise coming from the aircon ducts sounds like something emanating from the Temple of Doom. Already quite intimidating and I don’t think that we’ve really got started yet. This photo shows things looking relatively normal. Weird thing is that the wind is whistling, jet engine style, around the 18th floor of my building already, but at street level the trees don’t seem to be moving that much, and people seem to be going to work oblivious. Kids however, aren’t going to school as the government has cancelled it for the day. This more than anything has me worried, as very little manages to separate Koreans and their educational institutions, not even supposed summer vacations. Am on 2 hours sleep so far, so will try to get a little more and then report back.



Brief update - 6:36am. First tiny drops of rain are hitting my window. Strongly suspect that these won’t be the last. Korean weatherforecast seems to agree, but only predicts 3 inches between now and midnight. I guess that’s quite a lot though 



7:40am: Not doing so well at sleeping right now. Not totally sure why seeing as it's bedtime in England. Nevertheless, it's breakfast time here, so am pouring myself a bowl of Strawberry Crisp and watching the storm develop. It's raining steadily, but not heavily here, and the wind hasn't got any stronger either. These updates are exciting huh? There do seem to be less people going to work though - this road is normally nose to tail at this time. On my Twitter, @holterbarbour says:

"Hey Bolaven- pretty lackluster showing here in Seoul so far. Are you a hurriCANe or a hurriCAN'T?"

Hubristic? Stay tuned to find out. And look at this satelite pic while you do. In a couple of hours that will be right on top of me.

9:01am: On the edges of Seoul it seems like a fairly average day. The wind has dropped and the rain has ceased to fall for a while. However, the clouds are scudding across the sky at an alarming rate, and it is expected to get much worse around lunchtime, which is when my colleague Robyn will be out and about. She had this to say:

 I know I'm harping on this, but so far it's really not worse than normal Somerset West winter rain. Maybe later it will be a SW thunderstorm, where some potted trees get blown into neighbours' yards?



Brave words from the people of Seoul... I'm going to try to get some more kip whilst it's quiet.



12.26pm: Well, I managed to sleep pretty well, but I must have been woken up by the storm, which has indeed got a lot worse. There's fairly heavy, sideways rain beating against my window and things are looking a lot more, well, typhoony. There's still a fair amount of traffic on the roads, but I have only seen one person on the street so far, and they were being blown into an involuntary run, so the wind must be pretty strong. I certainly sounds impressive up here on the 18th floor. It is though, still surprisingly clear out there.


2:50pm: Updates are few and far between here because not much seems to be happening in Siheung. In fact, I'm not sure that the sun isn't going to come out. It's still really windy though, and the fact that one of the shared kitchen windows in my building doesn't shut is a bit worrying. Still, we're supposed to be at the worst point in the storm here, and I can see a couple of brave souls walking around in their shorts. Nothing else to report here, though sadly a Chinese fishing boat has overturned near Jeju killing at least 4 people, and I'm reading tweets about trees blowing down the road. For now though, I can't see anything amiss here.


5:51pm: This might be the final update, as again, not much is happening. The wind got up for a while back there, enough to blow open a window in the shared kitchen and turn the corridor into a temporary wind tunnel, but aside from that it's been a very calm typhoon, and a slightly disappointing blog post. Looking out the trees are all standing and there's even a group of old ladies out for a stroll (they do breed them tough out here though). If anything happens I'll update this again, but for now I'm going to go off, have some dinner and think about something more interesting to write about.

A







Thursday, May 31, 2012

Brief, Lazy Update...

...but again one that might be quite interesting.

I'm coming home! (for three weeks). I've finally got sick of practising my imaginary on-drive / ropey off-break down the university corridor, and decided that the real thing is in order. Hence I'll be back from the 6th - 26th August in search of a game of cricket and a cool pint in a hot beer garden. I will of course try to see as many people as possible in that time, but it might help if you were around London. If I miss you, I'm sorry, but Korea is spectacular in the autumn (SUBTLE HINT!)

About the only other interesting thing that's happening is that I've been presenting, and this time someone was kind/foolish enough to capture it on video. If you're keen on seeing me make an arse of myself, click the link below:


Right, that's all for now. Back to the grindstone.

A

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Ansan Street Arts Festival / Cross-posting

Hi everyone,

As usual I've been really busy, and also pretty uninspired in terms of stuff to write about on here. I have the sum total of zero news, unless you like hearing about how I haven't been outside the building for 3 or 4 days at a stretch. I am fine though, and continuing to drag myself reasonably successfully through my new job and my MA. I've also been hard at work on my other blog, and while I tend to keep the two separate normally, my latest post reveals a bit about ex-pat life and Korea in general which might be interesting to you, particularly if you have a passing interest in sociolinguistics or discourse analysis, particularly where race is concerned. If you have 5 minutes, take a look here:

http://breathyvowel.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/microagressions-and-difference/

In one of my rare forays into the sunshine, I did pop over to the Ansan Festival of Street Arts on Saturday, seemingly to watch people hooking themselves up to cranes and do stuff they could just as easily have done on the ground. Never doubt the importance of a crane in making shit look cool though:







Credit for this photo goes to my amazing, creative, multi-talented and generally all round wonderful language exchange partner and friend Bo Yeon Kim. (Is that credit enough? ^^)











Not content with swinging from cranes, the final act was something called Project Nalda (프로젝트 날다, meaning Project Flight), a rather novel combination of breakdancing, abseiling, light suits and fireworks. My camera wouldn't cope in the dark, but this Youtube video gives you an idea of what it was all about. I thought it was pretty awesome.


That's more or less it, but there is a promise of slightly more exciting stuff on the way. I'm off to Jeju with work this weekend, and then in two weeks I have the biggest presentation of my life at the KOTESOL National Conference. It's fair to say I'm bricking it a bit, but I'm pretty sure all will be fine. I'll try to post some photos or videos after the event.

Until then,

A

Monday, April 23, 2012

Korean Punk

This is just a short post, and again features fairly little about what I'm up to, as it's largely the same thing as it was last time I posted, and will be for the next 16 months or so. It might however be of some interest to some people.

It's not often that I get to dip my head under the surface of Korean mainstream culture. I'm making this comment with a degree of ignorance, but there doesn't seem to be the same depth of alternative and sub-cultures as there is in the UK; at the very least they don't have the same pervasive influence on the mainstream as indie and rock culture. Still, such cultures do exist, and when I got sent an advert for a show about a fictional North Korean punk hero it seemed like it was worth going to take a look.

Flyer

The gig was part of an exhibition which imagined "What if there was a punk rock club in Pyongyang?" and tracked the possible rise and fall of its hero, Rhee Sung Woong. It featured four bands, but sadly I only got to see three of them.

I walked in to hear the sounds of a guitar, drums and Korean traditional percussion being mangled underneath a wall of shrieking. Almost exactly what I wanted to hear actually - but a little surprising to actually discover. Not knowing all that much about punk I can't really tell you who they sound like, or even if they do sound like anyone else. They certainly didn't look like anyone else I've ever seen, as peering over the heads of the crowd I could dimly ascertain what seemed to be two haystacks with instruments playing in a tent. Fortunately, someone with a better camera than I was at the gig - check out daehanmindecline's excellent photos of all of the bands.  It just leaves me to show you what Mookiemookiemanmansu, for that is their name, sound like:


Next up were Pavlov, who I thought were just a bit too needy for my tastes, but I think that the gaggles of young girls at the front may have been more the target audience. A word of advice to the singer though - if you're not Steven Tyler you shouldn't really be taking your shirt off, and it might be better to leave the crotch dampening to said gaggles:


And the final band that I got to see were probably my favourite of the evening. Named Paryumchiakdan, they had a Western indie-ish sound that was still firmly rooted in Korean traditional music, especially Trot. They also looked like a proper indie outfit - floppy haired keyboard player with excellent economy of movement, moody girl on bass and a drummer convinced he was the coolest man in the room. The singer was the real star though, with a great voice and awesome presence. I'd actually make an effort to see these guys again:


After that I left, partly because I didn't realize that the final band hadn't played yet, and partly because the poncy pizza restaurant my language exchange partner (who had dutifully accompanied me) wanted to go to was closing. Perhaps not my punkest exit ever, but never mind. I'll leave you with a parting gift, a video of some real North Korean musical footage that was being played at the exhibition.:


I'll keep you up to date with any further musical adventures soon.

Until then,

A

Sunday, April 8, 2012

A walk around my 'hood

As I've already mentioned on here, there's been a bit of a change in my surroundings recently - a change for the more urban to say the least. I've spent many a megabyte cataloging some of the more beautiful parts of korea on this blog, so I thought for this post, I'd show of one of the less scenic locations - Siheung City's Jeongwang-dong.

One of my colleagues, upon looking out of her 18th floor window at endless batteries of apartments, remarked that "It all looks like it's been copy-pasted." She was right too, and not just in Jeongwang, but all over Korea. One of the things that I enjoy about London is the diversity of its architecture. Korea of course doesn't have the advantage of historic buildings, being a very recently developed country, and having had almost everything historic flattened in the Korean war. Even so, modern buildings are not so much function over form, as built to be as ugly as possible, though this may be a cultural thing I'm missing.

However, looking into wider Korean culture it becomes clear how important image and appearance is here. I don't know if there's ever been a study done, but I'd be willing to bet that korea has one if the highest mirrors per person figures in the world, and you only need to pop into a korean restaurant to see how well food is presented here. Another confusing point is that most of my students are excellent and creative artists. Maybe it gets drummed out of them in architect school. Whatever happens, urban korea can be a pretty miserable place sometimes, and I wonder if it's urban centers have anything to do with the fact that South Korea often ranks among the unhappiest countries on earth. I'm sure that having some of the longest working hours on earth is a pretty big factor, but doing it in some of the least inspiring buildings on earth can't help either.

As a language teacher you come to learn that showing is often better than telling, so without further ado, I present a walk through Jeongwang-dong from my university to the subway station:

 We start with a walk through campus, past the 6-a-side pitch...

...and the climbing wall.

 Casting a glance back at the Techno Innovation 'Park' (TIP, where I live work, work out, shop, eat etc.). My room is on the right hand side of the top floor as you look at it in this photo.

There is an attempt to put some green on campus... 

...but the buildings are still pretty horrible.

Leaving university grounds, we head into the entertainments district. 

At night, this is all neon. 

Two staples of Korean urban nightlife, the barbecue restaurant... 

...and the chicken and beer shop. 

 See, this says 'pub' but I guarantee you'll rarely have been in less pub-like places.

My unofficial study suggests that there are three mobile phone stores for every person in Korea. 

Following his banning from the USA, Pororo fell on hard times.

 Looking back through the entertainment district.

 And around from on the bridge.

 Inspiring, huh?

 An attempt to tip the scales?

... 

... 

...

The local high school. 

 ...

And finally, the subway station.

The strange thing is, I'm feeling remarkably positive about my new living situation, and life in general. It's always tough changing teaching contexts, and getting used to new students, guidelines and routines, but I'm definitely feeling more like I've cracked it recently. My Korean's improving since I moved to the big city too - turns out there's more people to talk to here - who knew? I might also be flexing some old indie muscles occasionally: I'm going to see a story about a mythical North Korean punk rock icon performed by SK punk bands on Friday - I have no idea what to expect, but may try to report back sometime soon.

Until then,

A



















Sunday, March 18, 2012

University Life

Hello again,

At the end of my last post I promised to write again and share something of my new life at university. Here goes then.

The building that I live in is pretty amazing. It's an 18 floor orange monster that towers over pretty much everything around it, even in a society as keen on high-rise living as Korea. I actually live on the 18th floor, the penthouse if you like, and work on the 9th. Throw in the fact that the gym and the screen golf are on the 6th floor, a pool hall on the 3rd, a bunch of restaurants and cafes on the first two floors, along with a convenience store, a bookshop, a hairdressers, a laundrette and a doctor's surgery, and there's very little reason to leave. In fact, I managed to stay inside for 72 hours straight last week without ever really noticing. If this sounds unhealthy, I'd point out that going outside involves gulping down great lungfuls of industrial smog, and probably isn't really a good idea.

I'm very definitely going to get lazy living here. Not only can I get three meals a day cooked for me in the canteen for a minimal price if I want, I also just have to hang a sign on my door if my room's getting dirty, and a lady comes and cleans it. Plus, all my utilities including internet are thrown in. Not a bad deal really.

The area around the university really doesn't have that much to offer. We're essentially perched between two of the larger industrial estates in korea and a container port. There's the usual collection of fried chicken shops, barbecue restaurants, bars and singing rooms that will be depressingly familiar to anyone with exclusive of urban Korea. I am however in a golden triangle of E-Mart, Lotte Mart and Homeplus (Tesco), meaning that most of my ex-pat specific shopping needs can be quickly and easily taken care of.

Professionally things are going quite well so far. I teach 18 class hours a week (in actuality these are only 40 our 50 minutes each) to three classes of 20 students. In addition, there are up to 8 "cafe hours" a week, where students can come and have one on one conversation practice. The difference in teaching is huge here; I am able to do things that I am learning about on my MA course in the classroom, that I was unable to do with large public school classes because of student levels, motivation, our simply the dynamics of a class of 30 students. I'm able to follow a proper conversation driven methodology, and it's heartening to see most of my new students enjoying taking to each other in English. Let's hope it continues.

There's not a whole lot of news really. University starts again tomorrow - sociolinguistics, which doesn't greatly inspire me, but maybe will if I read enough. I've also found a football team to play for, which is definitely the most international I've ever played for. Current playing staff include Americans, Canadians, Guatemalans, Mexicans, a Spaniard, a Moroccan and a Korean who lived in Tunbridge Wells for a year. Mental.

Will try to post some nice pictures of something next time. Until then...

A